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Mauro Molino’s Chardonnay is as awesome as his Barolo
When drinking Chardonnay, I look for restrained expressions of oak as I believe the reputation of Chardonnay has been bashed up by winemakers that are “oak zealots”- more oak is better- I cringe. Chardonnay fruit possesses one of the most beautifully perfumed aromas that should not be concealed or overwhelmed by oak, I believe that those who say “I don’t drink Chardonnay” need to think again because they are definitely missing the boat!
The latest winemaking trends are about expressing purity of fruit and terroir and being less interventional with winemaking in trying to manipulate and produce a flavour. Don’t get me wrong, oak when used sparingly provides fantastic structure and flavour to wine, but the key is always balance – this is all down to the mastery of the winemaker.
Produced from a small plot right in front of the winery, Mauro Molino’s Chardonnay is planted in calcerous, sandy soils. When drinking this Chardonnay, one can sense that Mauro is a gambler, deciding to grow Chardonnay in a region known primarily for its Barolo and Barbaresco….well, this is a gamble gone right, because this is a Chardonnay with everything going for it – great mouthfeel and texture with amazing layered complexity and nice acid backbone. I would not consider this a lean Chardonnay but it sure isn’t heavy, just perfectly weighted.
If I were to draw comparisons to a place in Burgundy, then I would say this is Meursault-like, built for the long-haul, the wine has fabulous aging potential but is also ultra enjoyable to drink now; hallmarks of a technically-strong wine.
The wine estate was started by Mauro Molino in 1979, in 2003, his son Matteo joined and in 2009, Martina his daughter also joined the family business. They are making insanely high-quality wines and the market recognition for their efforts are rolling in.
Italy’s best source for wine reviews, the Gambero Rosso, raves about the family-owned and managed Mauro Molino estate: ‘The Molinos again showed why they are among the top Langhe producers. Credit goes in particular to Mauro and his son, Matteo, who is partly responsible for the estate’s enormous critical success”
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Mauro Molino Chardonnay 2015
This wine is just so damn good for the price, it has to be one of the best value wines I have drunk over the last 24 months. The wine is unoaked, with a lot of tropical fruits on the nose – I get pineapples and ripe bananas. So much texture from sitting on lees, a heavenly mouthfeel, this is a wine with nice acid backbone to create finesse and balance. What an effort for a Chardonnay coming out of Piedmont, I wouldn’t have picked it but this is fabulous and I highly recommend it to anyone who wants a top white under RM100. Stocks are in our store, these are ready to ship immediately. Somehow this wine isn’t rated but on my count, easily 91 points if not more.